Art & Antique Dealer Bob Frassinetti & Lonely Planet.Thank you Sandra Bao! Up date on Buenos Aires Bob Frassinetti & Lonely Planet.
Good news to all our readers and friends! Lonely planet’s latest 4 th edition has come out and has recommended me to all as a tourist services, so we are know listed in both Argentina and Buenos Aires Guide Books.. I'm very happy about being mentioned and I hope this is a good tip for travellers coming to Buenos Aires –or any other Argentine location-… As I’ve been doing so far, I’ll share our insider’s point of view, tips and all information the visitor might need… And for those who want more, I also offer a customized tourist service, specially tailored to fit each and every one’s needs of interest and passion.
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Travel Rally venture, background. Along Route 40 January-February 2006
For as long as I can remember, route 40 was in my travel plans. Each
time I took some time off I was lured by route 40 adventures, when I
was discovering other faraway lands, it was still on my mind and
dreams; it was my top tip for fellow travelers seeking adventure and
beauty in Argentina.
As time went by, highway-route 40 was not only a desired destination,
but a life's need, a light that illuminated my present and upcoming
dreams. From then on, I knew this was sort of a fait destiny, one of
those places that will make your existence big and amazing.
I visited and traveled along the 40 by myself and those I love, year
after year. But recently something changed. Since I had created a job I
loved, a project I'm deeply fond of that's developing fabulously by
the hour, I thought to myself: why not include this fascinating route?
And I did. I began to design a Route 40 Rally Adventure-venture, and
finally by the end of 2005 a whole projection was soon to become
reality.
In the past I had explored the southern extreme of the route, and found
it amazing; I thought that a test adventure ride along the northern
part was just what I needed to finally trace the total tour lines. And
soon all the pieces began to fit into the master puzzle. My beloved
partner was also tempted by the adventure, so we hit the road in mid
January for a wonderful adventure... We decided we were going to stay
in traditional and magical hotels, those that are truthfully local with
an extra charm. I christened them Cheap Hotels, inexpensive but
wonderful small inns with the true local feel and way of life, artistic
and simple (the key to amazing)...
Buenos Aires- San Juan was our first section, whilst not thru the route
40, for it doesn't reach the Atlantic coast region; we were on our
way towards the Northern section of our Route 40 Adventure.
January 15, we hit the road. After adjusting last minute issues
regarding work and house care we finished loading the car and hit Santa
Fe Avenue towards the main highway taking us out of Buenos Aires.
Filled with happiness and emotion, we were on our way already!
We knew that this first trip was the longest, so we bought some sodas,
candies and a super box of sandwiches for the road. Those are not just
any regular sandwich; these are special Argentine ones, made out of a
very thin bread loaf, ham, cheese and any extra ingredient of your
desire, olives, lettuce, tomato, peppers, salami, palm hearts, tuna...
you name it, they have it.
Heading out of Buenos Aires we took the Route 8 and went thru the
provinces of Santa Fe and Cordoba towards San Luis. We traveled over
800 km until Merlo, a sweet small town known for its wonderful mellow
climate, fabulous landscapes and great sights.
Our initial plans to stay overnight in Merlo were frustrated by the
fact that the town was packed. We thought we will visit this sweet town
some other time, this trip was all about the route 40... We were filled
with positive energy, our wonderful trip was starting, hence we
understood this as a "meant to be sign". We hit the road
immediately towards the magical San Juan thru route 20 -home to the
Moon Valley and many wonderful natural sights-.
We arrived late in the evening to a small inn at Quines. It was late at
night but the night attendant arranged us a sweet room and a pleasant
dinner.
Enjoying the stars and the sweet air while eating dinner we met our
first road friends two bright Danishes -mother and son- who were
traveling thru Argentina on a super motorbike.
A wonderful conversation kept us busy that night. We then rested... The
next morning, under a bright blue sky we headed towards far more
northern destinations. We arrived at noon to San Jose de Jachal. A
charming small town lost in time, just a few couple of blocks and adobe
brick antique houses standing by the marvelous landscape welcomed us
quiet and empty: it's siesta time and every soul takes time to rest
under the shade of trees or the comfort of their beds. Latter in the
afternoon, when the raving sun begins to hide behind the mountains the
village dwellers slowly begin to populate the streets once again.
We stayed at another interesting lodge; the cute San Martin Hotel was
our home for that night.
As the sun goes down and the stars begin to shine brightly in the clear
sky we head to a local pub for a cold beer and peanuts -the Argentine
equivalent to the Irish popcorn-. It was time for dinner a true
northern "asado" was waiting for us; it was good! We invited an
American couple to join us for dinner. Our new friends were also
traveling to Talampaya in the morning so we shared information, tips
and life stories.
Early the next morning we head to the wonderful Talampaya in La Rioja.
This fabulous breathtaking location has been declared humanity's
patrimony by the UNESCO... and they are right! It's wonderful.
The road throughout the mountains until Villa Union is gorgeous.
Shallow rivers, rock tunnels and very little vegetation combine
creating a spectacular scene.
We arrive to Pircas Negras Hotel, were we just take a minute to
organize our stuff and head towards the wonderful National Park of
Talampaya.
Oh my God, this is a breathtaking place! Immense red stone walls that
have been carefully crafted by the millenary wind stand upon us as
superb Natural Monuments. We go inside the park with the company of a
specialized tour guide and a couple of fellow travelers from around the
globe that go as speechless as we do.
The scenery is breathtaking; we're touched in our souls by this
wonderful place.
At night, another fabulous experience would round up a fantastic day...
dinner at Los Sauces delights our palate with a simple but delightful
"cabrito asado".
The next stop in our adventure is Tucuman. We drive in 10 hours through
3 provinces. The leftover water mirrors left by the day's before rain
reflect the rich red mountains and earth of La Rioja. Once in Catamarca
province, the colors will turn into soft beiges... all throughout
Chilecito, Londres, Belen and Santa Maria the main stops along the road
we finally arrive to the magical Route 40!
A drive along a fabulous scenario will finally lead us to our
destination: the Quilmes Indians ruins; the remains of a strong and
legendary culture that was the last and toughest conquest for the
Spanish conquerors. The place is imponent, their history and culture
are outstanding, and we're astonished by their craftsmanship.
That night we'll spend it in the sophisticated and charming Quilmes
Hotel, built on part of the ruins of this ancient civilization, the
Quilmes people.
A day around the Quilmes ruins area was wonderful. And then back into
the Hotel and it's a refreshing swim in their beautiful-mountain
surrounded pool.
Cafayate was a wonderful surprise, the lovely location, the great
nearby vineyards and the superb Killia Hospedaje. The owner had turned
her lovely traditional house into a nice lodge.
The route takes us higher above the sea level at this point, nearly
2,000 meters, wow! What a rush of adrenaline.
A must when in Cafayate is the town's own invention: Torrontes wine
ice cream. A great surprise to the palate and the senses, that is best
enjoyed after a good local meal. At night we enjoyed a pleasant evening
with Marie France and Jean, two kind friends we met from Lyon, France.
Long conversations in wonderful sights have become a pleasant constant
in our journey.
As the sun began to shine illuminating the colorful mountains of this
southern Salta town, we hit the route 40 once again, driving from
Cafayate to the charming town of Cachi, a lost in time Colonial house
place of a great positive energy.
The roads are rough at this point, so we had to go slowly along the
rocky pathway. The fact that the scenario surrounding the route is so
astonishingly beautiful is a fabulous plus for those long rides. It
looks like it has been carefully planed for us adventure riders to have
a wonderful experience driving throughout the marvelous route 40. The
sights along the road have been christened the Quebrada de las Flechas
-Broken of the Arrows- , for the design motives the wind had carved
throughout the years in the heavy stone walls.
Passing thru Seclantas and El Colte, two charming locations were hand
made weavings and traditional handcrafts are fabulous.
We then accidentally discovered a superlative boutique hotel along the
road. Finca Colome is a marvelous place, the only altitude vineyard and
winery owned by Mr. Hess, a Swiss man who created sophisticated, luxury
and exclusive lodge, at the world's highest vineyard.
In the days to come, Route 40 will keep surprising us with its hidden
treasures and natural surrounding beauties.
A few miles north from the altitude winery we discovered yet another
great place: Estancia La Paya. Owned by a charming woman who's a
historian and anthropologist, and family run, Virginia the oldest
daughter gives a helping hand to all visitors, this place was our place
to be "in", simple and cool, run by this bright and interesting
charming young lady.
Cachi is outstanding, simple yet wonderful, small in size but big in
spiritual and aesthetic terms. It stole our heart. We definitely must
come back. But now, the route calls upon our souls and bodies. Climbing
up to 3,200 meters ofver the sea level, the last direct path of Route
40 runs along a majestic natural scenario towards La Poma. The area's
roughness and bright reds go turning rich and fertile as we get closer
to the Bishop's Slope.
The Route 40 was impossible at this point due to a heavy rain that had
occurred the day before, so we too route 33 towards Salta the Beautiful
-as it's known the province capital city because of its beauty-.
Our final destination was St Anthony of Copper, the final destination
of the train of the clouds and an inhospitable town.
The road once again leads us to paradise in earth: the house of
Jasmines. This amazing hotel is owned by Robert Duvall and his
Argentine wife. Oh my god! The place is gorgeous, it smells like roses
and jasmines; the room is terrific, a gorgeous bed and a tulle curtains
around it, marvelous huge windows offering a great park view. A
superlative swimming pool overlooking the river and nearby mountains...
Several living room areas and a marvelous atmosphere of cordiality and
great service are the final touches to this heavenly hotel.
Our dinner that night was just excellent. The chef had made a warm
salad with chicken, greens champignons and avocado; several home made
dips and humus to enjoy with warm bred, tenderloin T-bone steak with
glazed onions; and a wonderful cold chocolate cake for dessert was the
perfect ribbon like finish for our stay. Breakfast was as wonderful as
dinner, and a perfect start for our day journey to San Antonio de Los
Cobres in the limit between Salta and Jujuy provinces.
St Anthony was interesting, the viaduct and the town were our main day
features. The road trip however was as it had been all along the road,
amazing. As we kept on climbing towards the clouds, at 4,000 meters
over the sea level, the landscape around us kept on surprising us
gladly.
This was our last stop along the route 40. Filled with joy and emotion
we had accomplished not only the journey but also a rewarding inner
feeling of completeness, so rare in these modern days. Following the
Inca sun paths the next days will be also impressive and rewarding. The
Humahuaca Break was our last destination.
We started in Purmamarca, a gorgeous little town nearby Route 52. Four
blocks conform the town's center and main plaza, a church and a
couple of crafts-stores complete the scenario enriched by the
background image of the Seven Color Mountain.
We stayed at the Manatial del Silencio, Silence Springs, enjoyed
delightful meals at Los Morteros -The Morters- restaurant, and had
fun watching young backpacker travelers dancing at the town's plaza
at the rhythm of local "carnavalito" music.
Then along the road came Tilcara, Humahuaca and Iruya. This last place
was also an amazing surprise. This is a town built in the mountain
side, uphill are all the houses and the stone paved roads led the
visitors to the breathtaking top hill sights.
Once again, our Cheap Hotel takes our breath and rewards our bodies and
souls. We wake up to enjoy the sunrise from the comfort of our bed, the
spectacular huge windows of our room face the marvelous carved shapes
of the break, its broad walls bathed by the afternoon soft light are
the second sunny ritual we've begin to religiously pursue in these
former Inca towns.
Purmamarca is our final stop -once again- before heading back home.
We had so deeply fallen in love with that place that we had to return.
We returned to the Morters restaurant, to enjoy Tere's wonderful
cooking and exchange recipes and tips... We now chose La Comarca lodge,
another great place we discover, and once again enjoyed lovely
afternoons at the plaza's cafe..
Ruta 40, Route 40 Argentina
For more information: Email: bob@frassinetti.biz Bob Frassinetti.
Press here to go back to web blog:Daily Updates on Art, Antiques,
Collectibles as well as travel information for Buenos Aires, Argentina:
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